How to make a built-in slip or lining for an A-line skirt with elastic waistband

This tutorial assumes that you already have made a self-drafted pattern for an A-line skirt with elastic waistband using either this tutorial from the authors of the book, Sew What Skirts, or this tute by Emu that was posted on the Sew Mama Sew blog.

A note:  Most skirts do not need a lining if you chose a cotton fabric other than white.  I’ve made 4 other skirts and none of them required a lining.  However, the crossword puzzle fabric below is primarily white and a bit see through so a built-in slip or lining was required for modesty   I used white cotton broadcloth to make the lining.  Cotton broadcloth can be bought at any of the “big box” fabric stores for about $2.99 a yard, even less if it’s on sale or if you have a coupon.   

Step 1:  Making your slip/lining pattern
Take your A-line skirt with elastic waistband pattern and pin it to a large pice of paper.  (Note:  I personally like the butcher block style paper that comes on a roll.  Wrapping paper cheaper but I find butcher paper easier to work with and pin to the fabric.)  After the pattern is pinned to the paper, carefully cut all around (make sure you don’t cut into your original pattern!) and you will end up with a duplicate pattern.   

Step 2:  Tweaking the original skirt pattern to make a slip/lining pattern
I like labeling things so you can write “skirt lining” somewhere in the middle of your new pattern piece.  The lining will have the exact same length for the waistline (otherwise it wouldn’t nicely match up with the skirt waistline) but the (a) side length of the lining will be narrower, (b) the hem will be shorter, and (c) some of the top of the skirt will be trimmed off – these changes are necessary so that the slip will be ever so “skinnier” and will fit inside the skirt nicely without having bulky seams.   

Step 2a:  (The following 3 pictures)  This is where you will trim just a bit off the side length of the skirt to make the slip “skinnier.”  Take great care that you do not shorten the length of the waistline.  Place your yardstick slightly below the waistline and angle the yardstick so that  at the bottom of the skirt the edge of the yardstick is 1/4″ away from the edge of the lining pattern.  Draw this line in pencil and carefully trim off the excess.  You can see in the third picture that just a little bit ends up  getting cut off but that little bit will make the lining fit in nicely to the skirt.    

Step 2b:  You will want to measure 1″ from the bottom of the lining and make marks.  Then cut off 1″ from the bottom of your lining pattern. 

Step 2c:  (Sorry forgot to take picture):  This next step might be a little bit different depending on what size elastic you are using in your attached waistband.  The Sew What Skirts tute above calls for 1/2″ elastic, but I have used 3/4″ elastic in all my A-line skirts — it’s what I prefer.  If you also used 3/4″ elastic, then this is what you do to the top of your lining pattern:  In the same method as 2b, you will shorten the top of the skirt by 1.5″ (1  and 1/2 inches).  If you actually used the 1/2″ elastic the tute calls for, then you will shorten the top of your skirt by 1.25″ (1 and 1/4″ inches). 

Step 3:  Getting your skirt ready for the lining
Step 3a:  As directed in the above tutes, make your waistline casing for your skirt.  (At this point on the skirt,  the side seams have been sewn and finished and the bottom has been hemmed up).  If you use 3/4″ elastic, you will fold and press (iron) down the raw edge of the top of skirt by 1/2″ and then again by 1″.  Pin in place.  If you use 1/2″ elastic, you will fold and press (iron) down the raw edge of the top of the skirt by 1/2″ and then again by 3/4″.  Pin in place.

See the opening below where my finger slid through?  My finger fits 1″ inside (3/4″ if you made a waistline casing for 1/2″ elastic).  This is where the lining will go.

Step 3b:  Place the lining RIGHT SIDES OUT, so you can’t see the finished seams, over the skirt.  The skirt of course will be wrong side out. 

Step 3c:  Carefully unpin the skirt’s waistline casing (I don’t unpin all at once, I do it in small parts) and lift up the 1″  (or 3/4″) pressed fold.  Slide the top raw edge of the lining up to the crease in the fold.  Set skirt waistline casing back down over the lining and pin in place. 

Tip:  To make the side seams less bulky have your finished seams going in opposite directions.
 

Step 4:  This is what your skirt will look like when the lining has been attached and pinned inside the skirt’s waistline casing.  Sew up the casing, but remember to leave a couple inches open so you can insert your elastic!

Step 4 continued:  This is what your skirt will look like after you’ve sewn the casing and inserted your elastic.  The top raw edge of the lining is safe and sound tucked into the casing.  (sorry about the weird shadow above the waistline, I think it’s the hanger!)

At this point, if you’re like me, you will need to hem the lining by the same amount you used for the skirt.  I did a double 5/8″ hem on my skirt, so I will make a double 5/8″ hem on my lining too.  Once the lining is hemmed up, and the skirt is finished and turned right side out, the bottom of the lining will be about 1.5″ shorter than the main skirt.  However, it’s probably easier to hem the lining prior to step 3.

Enjoy your fancy new skirt with a lining for modesty!  I hope this tutorial is helpful to y’all!  Please drop me a comment if you end up using it or if you have any suggestions for me to make this tutorial easier.  Thanks and happy stitching!

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